« Peindre non la chose, mais l’effet qu’elle produit”

A jewel of the 9th district, the hotel parisien of the French Symbolist painter Gustave Moreau [1826 -1898] is located at 14 rue de la Rochefoucauld, hidden away in the Nouvelle Athènes neighbourhood. One could often walk by without noticing this extraordinary museum since the heavy doors appear to be always closed. Once in the vestibule you are invited to start the visit on the second floor. After climbing the last steps of the staircase, the visitor sees that the ceiling is higher--much, much higher--than expected.

The second story is actually the painter's old workshop, built in 1895. There are broad windows and a high ceiling framing the room. The third story, connected by a remarkable spiraling staircase, constitutes the second workshop of the artist. In spite of the height of the ceiling and the powerful luminosity of the place, one still feels enclosed since the walls are completely covered with oversized paintings of more than two hundred biblical and mythological characters.
Each time I visit I find myself spending a lot of time sitting on one of the stools slowly studying some of the 4,831 drawings and 250 watercolours that are available for visitors in beautiful wood display units. What an exception in museology the Gustave Moreau museum is! In one place it is possible to retrace the entire genesis of a painting and start to understand the creative process.

L'Apparition (1876) Les Prétendants (1852)

In the midst of the Impressionist period, Moreau chose an original and personal style often called "romantique tardif”. He is, in fact, recognized as a precursor of Symbolism, since his works are so rich in allegories and myths. The colours are often jewel tones and the composition intriguing to the point of fascination. Gustave Moreau followed Mallarmé's advice, “Peindre non la chose, mais l’effet qu’elle produit.” ("Don't paint the object, but the effect it has on you.")

Moreau’s paintings retain much of their fascination even if their meaning is not totally transparent. They have an unique vitality and the power to affect the viewer in an unique manner. I find that his art appeals as much to the intellect as to the intuition.

Don’t forget to also visit the main floor which connects to an intimate museum recreating the daily life of the painter and his parents.

Moreau's bedroom and study.

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Bon Anniversaire A Moi!

I just returned chez nous to find my beloved ready to celebrate my 21st birthday in style. Now that it's legal for me to imbibe, he purchased a bottle of the new French pear-flavored vodka by Grey Goose. We scrambled around for other ingredients that we already had on hand to concoct an original cocktail (exactly like they do in all those fancy-schmancy Michelin 3-star restaurants...) and here's what we came up with! Read on for the recipe.

3 parts Grey Goose La Poire Vodka
1 part Cointreau
2 dark Morello cherries
1 sliver crystalized ginger
1 pear slice
Mix the vodka and Cointreau in a cocktail shaker with plenty of ice. Place the cherries and crystalized ginger in the bottom of a cocktail glass. Strain the vodka mixture into the glass and garnish with the pear slice.

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Victor Lustig, The man who sold the Eiffel Tower !

Who was Victor Lustig ?
Once upon a time in 1900 in Austria/Hongria, was living a wealthy family, the Lustigs, whose son Victor was very talented : he could speak 5 languages fluently. But his unique ambition was to earn money, money and more money !
At the age of 19, Victor left his parents and “Paris, me voilà !”. After having scammed many rich French aristocrats and american Millionaires, he had enough money to actually live at the Crillon Palace, one of the most luxurious hotels in Paris !

The Eiffel Tower Scam
One morning, in 1925, as he was having a café at a Parisian terrace, Lustig read in the newspapers that the Eiffel Tower was in great need of repair, and the cost was totally prohibitive.
He suddenly had a great idea.
Lustig adopted the persona of a French Government Official and produced fake government stationary. He sent a letter to the 5 biggest scrap metal dealers with an invitation to a confidential meeting to discuss “ a great business that the Mairie de Paris could propose to them”. The letters were purposely vague, because Lustig did not want them to alert the authorities or directly contact the officials. All 5 agreed to meet him and during the meeting, Victor Lustig announced that the government was indeed scrapping the Eiffel Tower !! He reminded them that the ET was never built to be a permanent monument. 7000 tons of metal were to be sold to the best bidder !! They had been chosen on their good reputations and had to keep this information secret.
He even organized a guided visit to the ET for them. As the renovation works had already started, the dealers were quite impressed to see that the “destruction process” was in progress !

One of them, Mr Poisson, submitted a good bid. Lustig chose him because he looked very naive. Lustig asked Poisson (who mortgaged his own house for this bid) for a bribe and a check for the metal. Poor Poisson agreed for both ! Lustig imediately left he country after his scam, with a suitcase full of cash. Mr Poisson felt so embarrassed when he realized he falled in a trap that he did not even complain to the Police…Lustig led a life of great luxury at Poisson’s expense in Austria.
But there is a justice in this world and finally Lustig was forced to leave Europe after he tried to sell the ET a second time ! He got arrested in the USA in 1934 and spent 12 years in jail. He died of Pneumonia in 1947.

Source : Paris, mystérieux et insolite by Dominique Lesbros.

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