Day Trippin' - Sceaux what?

Raising kids in a city is simply grand, but every now and then we need to get out of town for a bit of fresh air, a break from the noise and frenzy of it all and a big helping of green.

One of our favorite day trips is to the Parc de Sceaux. The Chateau de Sceaux was re-built for Colbert, who took over the role of Finance Minister to King Louis XIV after Fouquet was found to be a bit too ambitious. As befitted his role, Colbert hired the best : the Perrault brothers, Le Brun, Mansart and of course, André Le Nôtre for the gardens. Much, but not all, of the chateau was destroyed during the Revolution. Renovations were carried out in the 19th century and the gardens in particular were restored to their original glory.

The Parc is about half an hour from the city and a ten minute walk from Parc de Sceaux stop of RER B. As you exit, you will go up a little street, jog right and then cross the street to your left and uphill. Cross the large intersection and to your right you will see a pedestrian street. This is the commercial area of the town of Sceaux, with a handful of little shops, some gourmet food purveyors and the boutique of the famous chocolatier, Patrick Roger. Saturday and Wednesday are market days, so be sure to follow the crowds to your left, passing the Parish church along the way, and fill up for a picnic in the Parc. If you are a true gourmand, remember to stop at L'Etoile du Berger for some extraordinary breads and truly remarkable fruit tarts.

The Parc de Sceaux is one of my favorite formal gardens in the entire country. The trees are cropped into inverted cones and soaring cubes, the canals form long algae-rich rectangles, with fountain dots through out: a living Cubist masterpiece in green. And it is one of the most entertaining... in a very un French-like manner, you are allowed on the grass at Sceaux! Locals come out to fish, bike, play frisbee, and picnic. On Saturdays the lawn in front of the chateau is a favorite spot for the African community to photograph wedding parties, the women in their ornate hats, bright colors and often chanting traditional songs. There are also a public swimming pool, tennis courts, a playground and wide allées to stroll.

The chateau itself is now a regional museum. Visits are free and the collection is small, so it is worth checking out, if nothing else for a quick visit to the restrooms, should the need arise. Next to the chateau is a buvette for refreshments. If you like adding culture to your visit, there is a summer classical music festival at the Orangerie and an outdoor Opera with the chateau as a fantastical backdrop. Magic all around.

Useful links : http://festival.orangerie.free.fr/
http://parc-de-sceaux.9online.fr/

photo : I love the baroque fountains in the Jardin du Petit Chateau